As the Fall/Winter 2023 runways have been dismantled, it’s clear that one trend is more prevalent than any collective preference for ruffles, pleated skirts or tailored jackets.
Plus-size models were noticeably scarce on the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris. This comes at a time when there is much discussion in the U.S. about the five injectable drugs currently available by prescription as appetite suppressants; the sixth drug, Rybelsus, is an oral pill. Two of them were officially approved in the United Kingdom – the largest influx of weight-loss drugs to emerge from that country in nearly a decade.
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In recent months, injectables such as Wegovy and Ozempic – which both contain the same active ingredient, semaglutide – have been widely reported as Hollywood’s most conservative weight-loss secrets. (Ozempic is primarily used to treat type 2 diabetes.) Comedian Chelsea Handler claimed in a January podcast appearance that her “anti-aging doctor just hands (Ozempic) over to anyone”. Even Elon Musk tweeted about joining Wegovy last year.
For many fashion critics and diversity advocates, the Fall/Winter 2023 show was a stark contrast to the (albeit limited) progress and exciting promise of recent seasons. This rollback has been widely criticized in the style press. Its potential impact is being evaluated more broadly: with the rise of these weight loss panaceas, the quest for size zero is now just a prescription.
Fall and winter failures
In 2020, Jill Kortleve and Paloma Elsesser became the first non-sample models to walk for Italian fashion house Fendi. (Traditionally, sample sizes range from size 0-4 in the U.S.) British brand Erdem entered the plus-size market in 2021, expanding its range to UK size 22 (or US size 18). in January 2022, Valentino made headlines after its couture show showcased a wide range of body types. But this season, there was a distinct lack of curvy bodies – or many others – on their runway.
Fendi and Valentino did not respond when contacted by CNN, while Erdem declined to comment.
According to fashion search engine Tagwalk, the number of medium and plus-size models is down 24 percent compared to spring/summer 2023. Similarly, a size-inclusive report conducted by Vogue Business found that 95.6 percent of styles are fall/winter 2023 sizes US 0-4. For context, industry marketing firm Plunkett Research estimated in 2015 that 68 percent of U.S. women wear a size US 14 or larger.
Models walk the runway at Erdem’s Fall/Winter 2023 show during London Fashion Week.
Models walk the runway at Erdem’s Fall/Winter 2023 show during London Fashion Week. Photo credit: Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
“It’s a definite step backwards,” said IMG model agent Mina White. She represents plus-size and curvy supermodels, including Elsesser and Ashley Graham. “It’s frustrating to see that some of these designers aren’t using curvy bodies like they used to.” Fendi and Valentino did not respond when contacted by CNN, while Erdem declined to comment.
“It’s frustrating to watch someone like Ashley Graham appear in the front row of so many big houses in a full look (provided by the designer),” White continued. “They want to use her image and her social following to take up some space in the marketplace, but they don’t want to reflect on their runway.”
For others, even “regressive” is too generous a word. “When do you step back from ……? A glorious time when the average American woman (16 yards) appeared on the runway as much as in everyday life? An era when fashion ads placed as many ‘plus-size’ and ‘medium-size’ women as ‘straight-size’ women?” Fashion journalist Amy Odell wrote in her Substack newsletter about last season’s shows. “No one needs any data to understand that representing a variety of body types and sizes in fashion shows or fashion images is not a priority for the industry.”
That said, a handful of (mostly smaller) brands came out ahead this season. In London, emerging brands Di Petsa, Karoline Vitto and Sinead O’Dwyer showcased size-diverse model lineups. the inclusivity of Christian Siriano, Coach, Kim Shui, Collina Strada and Bach Mai stood out in New York; while in Paris, Belgian brand Esther Manas (always a flag bearer for size diversity) staged one of the city’s most refreshing runways, showcasing a variety of fun, sexy, feminine looks that complemented a wide range of body types.
During Paris Fashion Week, Ester Manas staged one of the most inclusive shows of the season.
During Paris Fashion Week, Ester Manas starred in one of the most inclusive shows of the season. Photo credit: Richard Bord/Getty Images
Some models in medium and plus sizes could also be seen elsewhere: Off-White and Michael Kors, for example, showed some of these models. At Harris Reed’s debut show for Nina Ricci, Precious Lee opened the show-along with three other plus- and medium-size models.
Start with sample sizes
Fashion samples and sample sizes are one-off garments made before the mass production of an item, usually worn during a fashion show. Prioritizing the same body types in sample sizes means runway models are more easily interchangeable, saving fashion houses time and money if someone drops out of school or gets sick during or after the show.
That’s partly why, according to White, casting curvy models is still an uphill battle. She says she introduces new faces to the brand in the months leading up to runway season and highlights their specific sizes in all correspondence and is easy to read. “I want to be ahead of the curve,” White said. “So I was never told, ‘Oh, we want to make it work, but we don’t have her size,’ or what any conversation might look like.”
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But despite her efforts, she says she’s often told that making larger samples is too big a “financial boost” – even for traditional brands. “I get very frustrated when brands say that,” White says. “I don’t believe that’s the case, and I believe people aren’t properly educated on how to do it properly.”
Looks from London label Di Petsa’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
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